Hi, I’m Eiryu, the developer of Japan Now.
On May 6, 2025, I traveled to Dorogawa Onsen, and this article reports on my experience.
Dorogawa Onsen is located in the southern part of Nara Prefecture, deep in the Omine mountain.
The mountain was used by yamabushi (mountain ascetics) for rigorous shugendō training.
The village itself dates back over 1,300 years as a stop on the sacred Ōmine pilgrimage.
Nearby, you’ll find suspension bridges with a mystical atmosphere, limestone caves, and ancient temples.
Moreover, there’s a river with exceptionally clear water next to the Onsen town, and you can eat fish from that river.
What a clean river！
I visited on a day‐trip by car, but I recommend staying overnight.
After driving for 45 minutes along a deserted mountain road, I gradually saw the glow of lanterns.
The first thing that caught my eye was the visitor center. Here, you’ll find a tourist information desk, local specialty shops, and even an onsen you can use. As soon as I stepped out of the car, I was soothed by the gentle babble of the river and the calming scent of the trees—and right then I knew that, just for this moment, the trip had already been worth it.
When I arrived, it was just before nine o’clock pm, but many shops on the main street still had their lights on.
There were about ten places along the street—restaurants, cafés, and bars. Most were closed, but from their facades and posters, each looked very unique, so I’m already looking forward to my next visit.
Among them, I happened to come across the soba and tempura restaurant Seikūrō, and my intuition told me it would be absolutely delicious. It has great reviews on Google Maps, and it seems you can get the tempura zaru set—soba with tempura. (Unfortunately, it was closed when I arrived, so the photo is just an image. Definitely on my list for a revenge visit!)
Since I was already here, I decided to soak in the onsen and used the day‐use bath at a ryokan called Kadojin. It was open until nine o’clock, so I barely made it, but it was a wonderful experience.
Having been born in Japan, I’ve visited countless hot springs, yet I felt the quality of the water at Dorogawa Onsen was truly exceptional. The bath itself isn’t very large, but it seems overnight guests can reserve private baths. Even those who don’t like sharing a bath with strangers can still experience Onsen culture here.
The ryokan had many unique items on display, and was totally very clean.
This time I only visited one, but as I walked around town I spotted at least twenty of them. Each place had a retro Japanese vibe, and I’m definitely planning to stay at one next time. There were also places where you could enjoy craft beer.
Overall, my experience was excellent. I didn’t have many experiences, but just escaping the hustle and bustle of the city and being able to feel the sounds and scents of nature was amazing.
Again, I visited as a day trip, but after traveling such a long way, I don’t recommend it—especially since if you’re not driving, there’s no way to return if it’s already evening. Be sure to reserve a room so you can leisurely enjoy the Onsen and explore the surroundings.
Also, nearby is the UNESCO World Heritage site Mount Yoshino; you should definitely visit it as well.
In the first half of November, you can see beautiful autumn foliage just like in the photo!
From Osaka, you can take the subway and then transfer to the Kintetsu Line from Osaka Station; it’s about a 1.5-hour ride to Shimoichiguchi Station.
From there, a direct bus runs to Dorogawa Onsen—once you board, there’s no need to transfer, and it’s another 1.5 hours to reach the onsen.
The last bus from Shimoichiguchi departs at 5:50 PM, but rural bus timetables in Japan often change, so be sure to check Google Maps (or a similar service) in advance and allow plenty of buffer time.
Lastly, if you visit Dorogawa Onsen, please share your experience on Japan Now!
